27 April 2011

4. - 27 APR: Lijiang, Jade Dragon Mountain, Baisha, market

Up early and off to a bus ride to the mountains of Yulong Xueshan (Jade Dragon Mountain), where we leave the bus and buy some tickets. To do so, one must go through a weird sort of hangar, with a whole series of stands selling anything from oxygen bottles (in case of mountain sickness) to T-shirts, to traditional Chinese medicine, to dried frogs... I end up buying some CDs of local music.

A chairlift takes us up to the “yak meadows”. The view of the peaks from the top is stunning, and the white snow against the blue sky provides a perfect frame for the Buddhist gompa on top of a hill that we reach with an easy 20 min walk. The gompa is not the most impressive I have ever seen, still, it's good to see it here, open for business.

A few yaks graze around, it is all by the book! Not enough time to savor the atmosphere unfortunately, time to go back. I detest fixed schedules when traveling but today I have no choice, I am in the hands of the local guides. To make things worse, some of my clients, especially 50+ single Italian ladies, complain to me! Oh boy...

Lunch is in a typical restaurant in Baisha, the capital of the old Naxi kingdom and still one of their major centers, where murals from the Ming dynasty were once world famous, before, yes you guessed it... the Cultural Revolution did irreparable damage to them. Some of my companions begin to display uneasiness with Chinese food. (Figures...) I, on the contrary, find the fare fed to foreign groups to be too edulcorated, its taste made way too plain to adjust to the wimpy palates of Western tourists. Therefore, after making sure everyone has his plate full, I go and eat with the driver and the guide, who get REAL Chinese food: hearty, sometimes spicy, sometimes VERY spicy, and sooooo good! As of today this will become my standard operating procedure for the rest of the trip.

After lunch off to town for a visit of the food market, with impressive displays of all kinds of delicacies, clearly a successful farmers’ market that may not be very communist but has all its shelves full. Very colorful cabbages and other greens are on display next to bright red chili baskets that will spice up local dishes. Southern Chinese cuisine is known for being generally more spicy than the rest. In a semi-dark covered pavilion a number of butchers are busy chopping and skinning all kinds of animals, but especially pigs and cows as I can tell. No refrigeration system is in sight but the meat looks very fresh, I suppose there must be a high turnover.

I bought a red mahjong set, kind of old looking if not necessarily that old. Nearby, a palace that used to belong to an old pre-revolutionary governor exudes some ancient charm. I especially appreciate its old wooden doors. Many frescos all around, we are told by our local guide, were destroyed by the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution, but these doors survived because local farmers painted them over with portraits of Mao.

We then move on to the park of the Black Dragon Pool. It is a stunning location, with lots of history, art and architecture which we only have time to taste in part.

There is an old and very big camellia tree. It has its own guardian, who is well known because he has had this job for over 50 years. He says, through our guides, that the Red Guards wanted to cut the tree down as it was an "old thing" but he stopped them and told them they would have to kill him first, and they gave up. Who knows what really happened but the tree is here!

Dinner tonight brings a new guest: Baiju, the rice liquor that will accompany most of the rest of our dinners in this trip. Sort of similar to grappa (very sort of) it can be made with rice or sorghum. It has a rather coarse taste but can go down very well after a hearty Chinese meal.

26 April 2011

3. - 26 APR: Fly from Chengdu to Lijiang, Yunnan. Naxi concert

Alalalei! (Hello!) is the first word in Naxi language I learn from our guide upon arrival in this small but pretty and efficient airport in Yunnan province. Zhubaysay (Thank you!) is the second. Swallow, (the name of our guide) welcomes us in this peculiar province, where most of all the minorities of China live.

In Yunnan province, forty-five million people live in 400,000 square kilometers, an area  almost one and a half times the size of Italy, and of them, one third belong to national minorities, i.e. non-Han peoples. Twenty-five of China's fifty-six national minorities are represented in Yunnan.

The number of Naxi is small, less than half a million people, but Swallow thinks it's probably set to rise a bit since national minorities are not bound by the one-child policy of China. She, however, married a Han Chinese and therefore is stuck to one kid! :-( She says there are quite a few who break the rule. In this case they have to pay 300,000 Rmb (about 30k euro) for a fine. Alternatively, some couple just don't declare their second born. This can be difficult in a city but is relatively easy in the countryside. A third option is to sell the child to couples who can't have any. Finally, quite a few end up aborting their second child.

She takes us around town, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Black Dragon pool park is a serene spot, and very clean... everyone comes here to have their picture taken, and for good reason. A place to be savored for a few hours. A typical Chinese garden, with pagoda, lake, bridge, tower...

My most interesting meeting is with a ninety-something year old man at the Yufeng temple. He is a gardener, and has been tending to an extremely old camelia tree for many decades. He sort of sits there by the wayside, but says that during the Cultural Revolution the Red Guards came up the hill and wanted to cut down the tree, seen as some sort of decadent symbol or whatever... but he stood up and told them they would have to cut him down first, at which point they gave up and left. Not sure what to make of the story, but the obesssion with the damage inflicted by the fanatic Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution is a recurring refrain in this trip.

Dongba pictogams
We also have a chance to visit the Dongba Research Institute, where the old Naxi language is still studied and preserved. It is perhaps the last pictographic language in the world, composed of some 1400 pictograms, ie little drawings, unlike the Chinese ideograms which are composed of graphic symbols that don’t necessarily have any resemblance with the object of their representation.

At 20:30 we get a chance to listen to a concert of traditional Naxi music in the town's concert hall. This is no tourist trap, but an amazing group that resurrected an old musical heritage that had been destroyed to near extinction during the 1950s after the repressions of the "One Hundred Flowers" campaign in 1957.

The musicians are almost all octogenarians, with a few exceptions, among them a lady harpist and an amazing lady singer. They are led by Xuan Ke, who was imprisoned for twenty-one years (until 1978, after Mao's death) for his key role in founding the orchestra. He was allowed to restart it in 1984, and today the ensemble plays some original instruments which were saved from destruction at the time of One Hundred Flowers and then during the Cultural Revolution by some brave locals who hid them from the Red Guards at their own risk.

I talk to Xuan Kue after the concert, he has no bitterness, just an incredibly strong will to keep Naxi musical tradition alive, and he is sorry that it is difficult to find young people to learn how to play it. He claims this is China's oldest music and must be preserved for posterity. So at 81 y.o. he keeps performing with his group every night to packed audiences of locals and tourists.

Leitoto (goodbye in Naxi)!

25 April 2011

2. - 25 APR: Chengdu, Sichuan province, China

It is pleasantly warm, about 25 °C. Passport control is fast, and customs officers could not care less to check my bags. In fact the only person they seem to be interested in checking thoroughly is a pitch black man who was sitting next to me on the KLM plane. Maybe it's a coincidence, random checks. Maybe not, and it's racial profiling. I don't know. They scan his luggage repeatedly with the X-ray machine, then let him go.

The airport is brand new and very functional, like many in China today. By the time we reach the luggage carousel all our bags are already there, spinning slowly around and waiting to be picked up. It reminds of Rome where a half hour wait is good reason to consider oneself lucky!

24 April 2011

1. - 24 APR: Depart Italy via Amsterdam to Chengdu, Sichuan, start of the trip

I am again leading a group of Italian tourists to Asia. I am quite excited, have not been to China for some time, and it's my first visit to the western part of the country. The focus of the trip will be Yunnan, but we'll also spend some time in Chengdu and along the Yangtse river.

Uneventful flight with KLM via Amsterdam nonstop to Chengdu, a "medium size" city of 12 million people in Western China, capital of the Sichuan province. "Provinces" in China are in fact huge regions, this one is about one and one half times the size of Italy and weighs in at 80 million people, as many as live in all of Germany.

Chengdu is a lively city, if not a most charming one. Much of the older treasures have been destroyed in wars and revolution. It will be up to this generation to make up by creating a new Chengdu that won't replace the old one, for that is impossible, but will allow the world to miss it less.

Keeping Chengdu windows clean

23 April 2011

Itinerary of a trip to South West China, 24 April - 7 May 2011

 



Click here to see a slideshow of my pictures from this trip. I advise you to view the show at full screen.
 

 Trip to South West China, Yunnan, Sichuan and Yangtse

24 April – 7 May 2011

click on an itinerary to go to its post

Date
Itinerary
Night
Km
Hours
1
in flight


2
Chengdu
0
0
3
Lijiang
0
0
4
Lijiang
90
3
5
Shangri-la
190
4
6
Shangri-la
160
3
7
Kunming
220
4
8
Chongqing
50
2
9
aboard
0
0
10
aboard
0
0
11
aboard
0
0
12
Yichang
50
1
13
Wuhan


14







1.110
22

01 April 2011

Bibliography: Books on China

WORK IN PROGRESS!

This is a small but lengthening selection of many books on China I would like to recommend. See my separate lists on Hong Kong and Singapore. Click on each title to read my reviews and buy these books on Amazon.

Click here to see a slideshow of my pictures from a trip to Yunnan I took in 2011. I advise you to view the show at full screen.
__________





Guides and Maps

Goodman, Jim: Yunnan: China South of the Clouds (Hong Kong: Odyssey Books, 2009).

Mansfield, Stephen: Yunnan (Bucks, England: Bradt Guides, 2007).

Travelogues

Pisu, Renata: La Via della Cina (Milano: Sperling & Kupfer, 1999). Racconto di un'italiana in Cina negli anni cinquanta, con considerazioni a distanza di anni.



History and Culture

Donda, Massimo: Pillole di Cina (2013). Una macedonia di informazioni, disordinate ma divertenti.

Chang, Iris: The Rape of Nanking (London: Penguin, 2007). A controversial account of a horrifying episode of the Japanese occupation of China.

Chang, Jung: Empress Dowager Cixi (London, GLobalflair, 2013). Very sympathetic biography of a key woman in Chinese history.

Endo, Orie: Describing Intimacy  (2019) A book the secret language used by Hunan women.

Fairbank, John K. and Edwing Reischauer: China: Tradition and Transformation (Boston, Houghton Mufflin, 2nd ed., 1989).

Falcini, Giulia:  Il Nüshu, la scrittura che diede voce alle donne (2020). Il linguaggio segreto delle donne in Hunan.

Gernet, Jacques: Daily Life in China on the Eve of the Mongol Invasion, 1250-1276 (Palo Alto: Stanford U. Press, 1962).

Mo Yan: Red Sorghum (London: Penguin, 1994). A historical novel of China in the 1930s during the Japanese occupation. In italiano: Sorgo rosso (Einaudi tascabili).

Rampini, Federico: L'Ombra di Mao (Milano: Mondadori, 2008). Una facile introduzione ad un personaggio chiave del XX secolo

Rastelli, Achille: Italiani a Shanghai (Milano: Mursia, 2010). Storia della marina militare italiana in Cina dall'unità d'Italia alla disfatta della seconda guerra mondiale.

Redaelli, Margherita: Il mappamondo con la Cina al centro (Pisa: ETS, 2007) Fonti antiche e mediazione culturale nell'opera el gesuita Matteo Ricci.

Rosati Freeman, Francesca: Benvenuti nel Paese delle Donne (Roma: XL Edizioni, 2010). Ritorno nello Yunnan sulla scia di Namu (vedi il libro Leaving Mother Lake).


From Within the Country

Hessler, Peter: River Town (London: John Murray, 2001). A Peace Corps volunteer spends two years in China in the mid-1990s.

Namu and Christine Mathieu: Leaving Mother Lake (London: Abacus, 2003). The story of Namu, a gifted singer from the Moso minority in Yunnan. Pubblicato in italiano come Il Paese delle Donne (Sperling e Kupfer).

Xinran: What the Chinese Don't Eat (London: VIntage Books, 2006).

Films on China


Films on China

This is a small selection of movies about China which I have reviewed. In the US and internationally, you can buy movies on China here. In the UK you can click here to buy films on China.


Confucius (2010) by Hu Mei. Historical fictionon the life of the great sage.

Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (2000) by Ang Lee.  Wuxia film in XIX century China.

The Curse of the Golden Flower (2006) by Zhang Yimou. Fiction on palace intrigues at the Tang imperial court.

Farewell my Concubine (1993) by Chen Kaige. How Peking Opera spanned the history of China in the XX century through the lives of two actors and a woman who got between the two of them.

La Guerra dei Fiori Rossi (2006) by Zhang Yuan. Children in China compete against each other at school.

Happy Times (2000) by Zhang Yimou. A older man and a blind girl meet by chance, but can they be happy?

Ju Dou (1990) by Zhang Yimou. Tragic story of love and power during feudal China's last spasm in the 1920s.

The Farewell (2019) by Lulu Wang. ***** Based on a true story of family love for a grandma who is nearing the end of her life.

The Lover (1992) by Jean-Jacques Annaud. A rich Chinese man meets a pretty French lady in French-ruled Vietnam in the 1930s.

Lust, Caution (2008), by Ang Lee. Passion and war in Japanese-occupied Taiwan.

Mongol (2007) by Sergei Bodrov. The life of young Gengis Khan, the Mongol who would become emperor of China.

Not one less (1999) by Zhang Yimou. A young teacher must learn quickly in a rural school.

Pushing Hands (1992) by Ang Lee. A Chinese tai-chi master moves to New York

Red Obsession (2013) by David Roach and Warwick Ross. China enters the world market for premium wine.

Red Sorghum (1987) by Zhang Yimou. A woman struggles for her life while China moves toward modernity.

The Road Home (1999) by Zhang Yimou. A son who made it in the city finds his roots in his family's village.

Sand Pebbles (1966) by Robert Wise. An American naval boat sails up a river in China in the 1930s.

The Story of Qiu Ju (1992) by Zhang Yimou. A peasant lady seeks justice in China's huge bureaucracy.

A Thousand Pieces of Gold  (1991) by Nancy Kelly. A love story to understand a piece of forgotten history of the Chinese in America.

Tuya's marriage (2007) by Wang Quan'an. The story of a woman who wants to marry another man to save her husband.

You and me (2013) by Zhang Yimou. A film on Chinese opera, not the best by this great director.

Youth (2017) by Feng Xiaogang. Young kids survive the traumas of the cultural revolution and the war with Vietnam to see the transformations of market reforms.

31 March 2011

Recensione: Mangia!, di Andrea Pugliese, *****

Sinossi

"Questo non è un libro di ricette. Serve a chiarire come il buon cibo dia risposte più sincere e convincenti di molti psicologi, filosofi, e guru. Al tavolo consueto di una domenica in famiglia come nella bettola più unta e polverosa di Bombay, le radici del gusto si piantano solide nella nostra memoria e fanno germogliare quello che siamo.

Si cucina e si mangia per sedurre, per compiacere (e compiacersi), per stimolare l'invidia di chi è negato ai fornelli ma vorrebbe essere diverso. Il cibo diventa propedeutico al sesso e surrogato del sesso stesso, finché è il sesso a essere relegato a completamento del cibo."


Recensione

Seconda edizione dopo 5 anni di una divertente collezione di brevi storie che raccontano le esperienze dell'autore a tavola, dalla tavola italiana tradizionale della mamma a quella dei più disparati angoli del mondo, con amici, amanti e sconosciuti. Con particolare enfasi sulla relazione tra cibo e passione, sesso, innamoramento. Cibo come cumulo di esperienza sensoriale direi quasi... multimediale! Ironico ed autoironico, diverte ma informa allo stesso tempo sul profondo significato che ha per gli italiani lo stare a tavola. Un filosofo diceva che siamo quello che mangiamo, ma qui traspare anche che "mangiamo quello che siamo"! Dimmi cosa mangi (e come lo mangi, e con chi, e come lo cucini) e ti dirò chi sei!

13 March 2011

Recensione: Storie Africane. Viaggio in Tanzania, di Andrea Berrini, ***

Sinossi
"Presto non so più quanta strada ho fatto, quanta ne manca. E' un sentiero qualsiasi, in una campagna qualsiasi, ma il caldo è umido e appiccicoso, e nella foschia in fondo si intravede il lago Vittoria. Sono in mezzo all'Africa, da solo."

12 March 2011

Recensione: Samurai!, di Saburo Sakai, ****

Saburo Sakai
Sinossi

Con il suo "record" di 64 abbattimenti ufficiali, Saburo Sakai è considerato uno degli assi dell'aviazione da caccia moderna. Sottoufficiale dell'aviazione della Marina, a bordo del suo leggendario Zero, uno degli apparecchi più micidiali che abbiano mai solcato i cieli, compì una serie di straordinarie imprese per eroismo, talento di volo, intelligenza tattica, ma anche per generosità e altruismo.

La sua storia trasporta i lettori nel suo ambiente familiare e negli anni del durissimo addestramento, per condurli poi nei cieli della Manciuria, dove Sakai combatté dal 1938 al 1941 contro i cinesi, e sul Pacifico, dove l'"ultimo dei Samurai" duellò fino al 1945 con i piloti americani, diventando una leggenda vivente e sopravvivendo al suo destino.