Bangkok to Sanya via Guangzhou

Colazione fantastica come sempre all'Ariyasom Villa, mi dispiace partire, speriamo di tornare presto in questa beata oasi nel cuore di Bangkok. Boutique hotel creato negli anni 40 del XX secolo, in tempo di guerra, lo gestisce l'elegante signora Khun Pariyas, figlia dei fondatori, con il marito David, un simpatico inglese diventato Thai al 100% che ama conversare di politica quando viene a salutare i clienti a tavola.

Frutta tropicale, zuppa calda di noodles con pezzetti di pesce (sì, è ottima per colazione!) e elementi occidentali per chi vuole, uova e pesce affumicato, ecc. Non servono carne nel loro ristorante ma verdure e pesce sono ottimi, come la scelta dei vini in cantina.

In aeroporto recuperiamo i bagagli necessari al matrimonio cinese che ci aspetta nei prossimi giorni e che avevamo lasciato al deposito durante il viaggio in Bhutan. Tutto a posto, solo che bisogna pagare in contanti, mi sorprende l'arretratezza di questa richiesta nella Bangkok supertech, mi tocca perdere tempo a cercare un bancomat. 100 baht per bagaglio.

Curioso cartello per accedere alla "fila prioritaria" dei controlli di sicurezza, una serie inconsueta di personaggi hanno priorità. Non non rientriamo in nessuna di queste categorie e quindi siamo relegati alla fila normale, che comunque ...fila liscia e rapida!

Arrivati a Guangzhou ci troviamo invece davanti una fila interminabile per il controllo passaporti. Deve essere un volo dall'Africa, i passeggeri sono quasi tutti di pelle scurissima. Rischiamo di perdere la coincidenza per Sanya. Per fortuna Lifang riesce a convincere una guardia della sicurezza che ci fa passare davanti a tutti! Non avrei detto. Ho anche avuto  l'impressione, ma magari mi sbaglio, che con i passeggeri africani i controlli fossero più accurati e quindi lunghi che con gli altri. Noi siamo passati in un baleno!

Ad aspettarci all'imbarco per Sanya i genitori di Lifang, fratello e cognata e la piccola Cindy, la loro figlia di 8 mesi che fa il suo primo viaggio in aereo!

5. - 25 August: Jakar to Mongar

We wake up at 6 o'clock, have breakfast and hit the road by 7. Low clouds at dawn give room to a sunny morning very quickly and it promises to be a gorgeous day.

Very long and tiring drive on a road which badly needs some repair work. Bhutan makes a lot of money by imposing expensive daily charges to tourists, hopefully some of that money will go to road improvement.

We drive through the Ura valley and over the Thrumshing pass (3800 meters) one of the highest motorable roads in the country. Lots of multicolored prayer flags, and many white ones as well.

Stop for lunch in a local restaurant, the Wogon Villa, in Sengor village. Momos and other local veggies and meats. Not too much variety but strong and inviting flavors and smells, I love it.

Our guide today tells us about the African snail infestation in Bhutan. The snails got into the country who knows how, they liked it and are now multiplying out of control. Good Buddhists cannot "kill" them of course, so the king approved of a policy to "reduce" their population.

Most of the country is buddhist, except for substantial minorities of Hindu practitioners, mostly Nepali immigrants in the south of the country, and amounting to some 25% of the total population. The first Hindu temple was built in 2012, in Thimpu.

Thsering tells us how Christian missions have been welcome in Bhutan for some time, but no preaching is allowed, that was the deal with the government as a condition to be permitted to operate. Yet, in the last few years some Christians, both foreign and Bhutanese, have been arrested for displaying their faith. In theory the constitution of 2008 provides for freedom of religion but in practice it seems there is still some way to go. No religion is allowed to do any proselytism at all actually.

Accommodation at the Wangchuk resort. Before dinner we take a walk around town, lots of people in the streets, street vendors, old folks spinning a prayer wheel in the main square of the town. Two kids play with an old typewriter, who knows maybe it belonged to their grandfather.

At some point I strike a conversation with a policeman and a policewoman, very relaxed and unarmed. It's hard to think what police would have to police here.

A public garden/playground is full of kids running around and playing with their toys.

We have dinner and hit the sack early as tomorrow it is going to be a long and, we already know, momentous day.

Road sign of the day:

Wish you a safe and happy journey

4. - 24 August: Bumthang

Today we drove about two hours each way, to the Tang valley.

For lunch we had the opportunity to taste the food prepared in a farm house. Local cuisine such as buck wheat noddles and pancake. It was quite staged for us but nonetheless interesting to see them preparing their traditional fare.

Traditional Bhutanese farm tools

The Ugyencholing Palace and museum which we stopped at next was full of old masks (a bit eerie!), tools, furniture. A look at Bhutan a few decades ago.

Nunnery

En route we visited the Pema Choling Nunnery, where we spent some time witnessing an afternoon session of the nuns singing their mantras. A peaceful atmosphere.

We all sat around the young nuns and listened to their recitations. I started to use a flash but stopped as it would disturb them.

After the mantras we were offered some tea and light refreshments and of course gave our offering to the temple.

Toilet door. Pema Choling nunnery

I was struck by a sign posted on the door of one of the common toilets. It reflected the education of these nuns, learning to take pride in each and every task they were assigned to. A lesson for all of us.

Dinner in local restaurant for momos (Bhutanese dumplings) similar to what I had eaten in Ladakh. At night we were back to our Yugarling hotel.