11 August 1999

12. - 11 AUG: Hwange to Victoria Falls

Easy drive from this great park to the most iconic site of Zimbabwe: Victoria Falls, obviously named after the Empress of the UK in the XIX century.

I did some research on accommodation. The Vic Falls Hotel is a city monument and must be visited, but it is not
for those who suffer noise pollution: ultralights, microlights,
helicopters, and various types of airplanes circle right above it (to get
the best view of the Falls) from dawn to dusk come what may...

At the Elephant's Walk shopping center we found the best shop for
authentic African antiques in the country; of course, it is not cheap, but
you get 10% off if you spend more than Z$20,000. They will also provide
documentation on the items they sell.

The Vic Falls Safari lodge is pleasant and well organized; breakfasts are
great on the terrace overlooking the waterhole and the park, the pool is
small but very nice. The Boma restaurant opposite is a bit too touristy,
but the dancers are actually good (not so the story tellers which come
around with pathetic "African" legends to get tips). Food is excellent and
worth the money (count on some 15 USDpp).

This is what I eventually booked.

The Gorges Lodge , some 30min out of town was our real surprise: it is a
series of cottages built literally on the cliff edge of the Zambesi
gorges, around rapid number 19. The view is breathtaking and the service,
including the food, among the best we have had in the country. At USD
225pppd all inclusive it is not cheap, but worth it. The only bummer is
the dirt road to get there, there is no way to avoid your daily share of
dust eating to get in and out of the lodge.

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