Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts

01 April 2007

Visit of the Vittoriale degli Italiani, home of Gabriele D'Annunzio

Gabriele D'Annunzio was an iconic writer that polarized Italian literary critics during his lifetime and continues to do so decades after his death.

His home is still an incredible collection of stuff that made his life in peace and war.

The museum is worth a detour if you are around Lake Garda.



The MAS (Mezzi d'Assalto Siluranti), a highly successful family of weapon systems of the Italian navy in WW I and II.

Here is a model from WW I.

Pictures were not allowed in most of the home so here is a few I took where I could. You can find more pictures of additional items here on Wikipedia. His home was full to the brim with all kinds of art and mementos.

I feel close to him in his abhorrence of empty spaces. Horror vacui it was called, and I share it a bit in my home.


Italian warship Puglia

05 March 2007

Recensione: I Nullafacenti (2008), di Pietro Ichino, ****

Sinossi

"Perché, mentre si discute di tagli dolorosi alla spesa pubblica per risanare i conti dello Stato, nessuno propone di cominciare a tagliare l'odiosa rendita parassitaria dei nullafacenti?" Il 24 agosto 2006, dalle colonne del "Corriere della Sera", Pietro Ichino lancia una proposta che scuote il mondo politico e sindacale...

04 January 2005

Discorso di fine anno del presidente Ciampi

Lettera inviata a Sergio Romano e pubblicata dal Corriere della Sera il 4 Gennaio 2005.

Sono un italiano che vive da anni all'estero e pur essendo disgustato dalla nostra politica interna ogni 31 dicembre ascolto il discorso del presidente della Repubblica, il mio presidente, per sentire il polso della situazione del mio Paese.

Sono rimasto deluso quest'anno nell'ascoltare il presidente Ciampi augurare buon anno prima di tutto con grande enfasi al Papa e solo dopo agli italiani. Mi ha irritato essere messo in secondo piano, dal capo del mio Stato, per dare la precedenza a un capo di Stato straniero, per quanto autorevole.

Ma allora, come disse il titolo di un bel libro di Giordano Bruno Guerri, gli italiani sono sempre sotto la Chiesa?

Compra il libro su Amazon:

16 November 2004

Book Review: The Dark Heart of Italy, by Tobias Jones. *

Synopsis

In 1999 Tobias Jones travelled to Italy, expecting to discover the pastoral bliss described by centuries of foreign visitors and famous writers. Instead, he discovered a very different country, besieged by unfathomable terrorism and deep-seated paranoia, where crime is scarcely ever met with punishment. Now, in this travelogue, Jones explores not just Italy's familiar delights (art, climate, cuisine), but the livelier and stranger sides of the bel paese: language, football, Catholicism, cinema, television and terrorism. Why, he wonders, do bombs still explode every time politics start getting serious? Why does everyone urge him to go home as soon as possible, saying that Italy is a 'brothel'?


Review

This must be the worst book on Italy I have ever read. Uninformed, superficial, exuding prejudice and smugness, politically biased. The author displays phenomenal ignorance and his judgement is superficial almost to the point of being funny! Were it not for some specific anecdotes he tells rather amusingly, I would have wondered whether he ever set foot in the country at all. He is obsessed with Berlusconi, he just hates the guts of the man. Well that's fine, many Italians do too, but it does not make for informative reading. His writing style is full of smugness, he says he loves the country but he is very condescending toward Italians and does not display the least interest in truly integrating in Italian society. Inaccuracies are too many to list here. A book that is better avoided by those who want to understand contemporary Italy.

04 May 2003

L'olio d'oliva extra-vergine alle Maldive

Dopo cena quattro compagni di crociera vanno a pesca con il barchino d’appoggio, poco più di un guscio di noce. Il piccolo fuoribordo li porta un po’ lontano dalla rada dove siamo ancorati. C’è la luna piena, la laguna è calma come l’olio, il cielo quasi pulito, il silenzio (quando convinco il comandante a spegnere il generatore di bordo) è assoluto. Dopo un paio d’ore gli intrepidi pescatori tornano con un sacco di pesci di media taglia, che domani saranno il nostro pranzo, un po’ fritti, che qui va molto, ed un po’ semplicemente grigliati e conditi con un po’ d’olio d’oliva e limone.

D’abitudine quando vado in crociera alle Maldive chiedo a tutti i miei compagni di viaggio di portare dall’Italia un po’ di limone (più saporito del lime locale) e un po’ di olio d’oliva extravergine della propria regione (qui si trova più che altro olio di semi). Si sa che in Italia siamo un po’ tutti maniaci dell’olio della nostra terra. Anche a Bruxelles, dove vivo, è divertentissimo ascoltare le discussioni tra italiani espatriati riguardo all’olio d’oliva. Con il vino è diverso: tutti vantano le doti organolettiche dei vini della propria regione, ma c’è una generale disponibilità ad apprezzare anche i vini di altre regioni, e magari stranieri.

Con l’olio no: ognuno è sinceramente convinto che quello della propria regione, qualunque essa sia, se non della propria provincia, per non parlare di quelli che lo producono in famiglia, sia oggettivamente il migliore olio del mondo, che non ci sarebbe neanche da doverlo dire tanto è ovvio: l’acidità, il sapore, il colore, la leggerezza, tutto grazie al sole, al terreno, alla macrobioticità, la coltivazione «bio», ecc. ecc. Si vedono le persone più equilibrate e mansuete irrigidirsi, scattare di nervi, solo a suggerire che magari in altre regioni italiane (oppure, sacrilegio, all’estero!) ce ne sia di altrettanto buono o, percaritàdiddio, di migliore, e magari a prezzo più conveniente. Forse, in tutta Italia, solo i residenti delle valli ladine non accampano con convinzione il primato sull’olio d’oliva.

Tutto questo è un ridicolo campanilismo, frutto di ottusità culturale e miopia degustativa. Perché azzuffarsi così puerilmente? Tanto si sa che l’olio migliore del mondo è indiscutibilmente quello pugliese, e precisamente quello del Gargano, ed in particolare quello prodotto sui «Monticelli» alla periferia di Manfredonia dove mio nonno materno per decenni accudiva i suoi uliveti. Al quale, oggettivamente, può tener testa solo quello calabrese prodotto dai miei cugini Carlo e Giuliana, specificatamente della provincia di Catanzaro ed esattamente di Lamezia Terme, che mio padre mi riporta ogni tanto quando torna a visitare i nostri familiari. Chiarito questo,...


Questo post è un estratto del mio libro sulle Maldive. Per comprare il libro formato kindle su Amazon clicca qui.

04 July 2002

Book Review: Extra Virgin (2001), by Annie Hawes, *****

Synopsis

A small stone house deep among the olive groves of Liguria, going for the price of a dodgy second-hand car. Annie Hawes and her sister, on the spot by chance, have no plans whatsoever to move to the Italian Riviera but find naturally that it's an offer they can't refuse. The laugh is on the Foreign Females who discover that here amongst the hardcore olive farming folk their incompetence is positively alarming. Not to worry: the thrifty villagers of Diano San Pietro are on the case, and soon plying the Pallid Sisters with advice, ridicule, tall tales and copious hillside refreshments ...


25 February 2001

Lettera a Indro Montanelli sulla sinistra italiana

Caro Montanelli,

la leggo dall'estero, vivo in Belgio, perché lei rimane un raggio di chiarezza nel guazzabuglio quale appare la scena politica italiana all'avvicinarsi delle elezioni.


Condivido le sue riserve sulla Casa delle Libertà, ma mi pare lei dia troppo credito alla sinistra. 


Lei dice che la voterà perché non ci ha tolto le libertà che avevamo e ci ha "portato in Europa". La sinistra non ha portato l'Italia in Europa perché c'era già: l'Italia ha fondato l'Europa negli anni cinquanta e, nonostante la sinistra ci abbia in passato provato, non ne è mai uscita; e non credo la potrebbe o vorrebbe far uscire un qualunque altro governo.


Le libertà: anche se avessero voluto, ed io non lo credo, come avrebbero potuto togliercele? Sono finiti quei tempi.


A lei preoccupa un Berlusconi che controlli sei reti TV, e sono d'accordo, anche se lui dice che privatizzerebbe 2 reti RAI. Ma le reti RAI, oggi, le paiono migliori, o solo diverse, da Mediaset? A me, no: la gazzarra e la sguaiatezza sono identiche; i moderatori delle trasmissioni politiche che da esse si fanno travolgere, anche; le cosce lunghe e le tettone che rimbalzano al vento, che alla fine sono le sole cose di qualità che ci propinano, pure. E poi la stessa inflazione degli applausi: ma perché in televisione si applaude sempre? Il pubblico si batte col privato per quote di ascolto e, così facendo, il guazzabuglio di cui sopra lo ripropone ed amplifica ad nauseam, con l'aggravante di farlo a spese di chi paga il canone.


Comunque lei almeno il suo voto lo potrà esprimere: io, che ho la colpa di rappresentare l'Italia in un'organizzazione internazionale, la NATO per essere precisi. Non è possibile che tutti i funzionari ed impiegati italiani della NATO e dell'Unione Europea, più tutti quelli che lavorano a Bruxelles nell'indotto, possano venire in Italia per votare, anche se la NATO me lo permetterebbe.


Godrò invece del beneficio di non dovermi turare il naso per votare, dato che anche questa volta questo diritto mi viene negato dalla mancanza di una legge che, dopo averla osteggiata per decenni, il governo "europeista" di  sinistra ora finalmente dice di volere ma che, in cinque anni di potere, non è riuscito a partorire.

26 April 1999

Book Review: An Italian Education, by Tim Parks, *****

Product Description
Tim Parks’s best seller, Italian Neighbors, offered a sparkling, witty, and acutely observed account of an expatriate’s life in a small village outside of Verona. Now in An Italian Education, Parks continues his chronicle of adapting to Italian society and culture, while raising his Italian-born children. With the exquisite eye for detail, character, and intrigue that has brought him acclaim as a novelist, Parks creates an enchanting portrait of Italian parenthood and family life at home, in the classroom, and at church. Shifting from hilarity to despair in the time it takes to sing a lullaby, Parks learns that to be a true Italian, one must live by the motto “All days are one.”

Review
Tim Parks has written a highly readable and perceptive account of his life in Italy. Unlike many English authors who write about the country he does not display any sense of smugness and has no complex of superiority! In fact he has so much integrated into Italian society that one might as well say he is Italian by now! He grasps the nouances of life in Italy from the point of view of a normal person living there, not a traveler, not a tourist, not a scholar. He can even make fun of Italians without being offensive. He also appreciates much that most foreigners miss. An open window into contemporary Italy. Highly recommended.

Addendum 2011: While the book was written in the nineties pretty much everything he says is still very much true ten years on.

22 November 1998

Book Review: "Italian Neighbors", by Tim Parks, *****

Synopsis

In this deliciously seductive account of an Italian neighborhood with a statue of the Virgin at one end of the street, a derelict bottle factory at the other, and a wealth of exotic flora and fauna in between, acclaimed novelist Tim Parks celebrates ten years of living with his wife, Rita, in Verona, Italy.

31 October 1991

2° g - 31 OTT: incontri con un italiano di Tirana e all’università

Dopo una misera colazione usciamo a piedi per le strade di Tirana, non c’è più la Mercedes blu. In questi giorni andremo a tutti gli appuntamenti sempre a piedi, per fortuna che Tirana non è molto grande, almeno il centro dove sono i luoghi dei nostri incontri, non c’è nessuno per strada ed il tempo è bello. Arriviamo subito piazza Skanderbeg, intitolata al glorioso personaggio della resistenza nazionale, che è totalmente deserta, solo alcuni mezzi pubblici abbandonati, senza carburante o con semiassi rotti, finestrini sfasciati. Fino a pochi mesi fa le auto private erano vietate, ora sono permesse ma ovviamente nessuno se le può permettere al momento. In compenso in questi giorni abbiamo incontrato, in piena città, qualche pastore con le sue pecore. Non ci sono semafori.

26 June 1987

Book review: Obiettivo Difesa, by Luigi Caligaris and Carlo Maria Santoro, ****

this English review was originally published in Survival, Vol XXIX, No 4, July/August 1987.


Recensione

In the last few years, the international economic and political stature of Italy has increased. One domestic repercussion of this has been a generalized concern about security policy. This renewed interest in security has revitalized a dormant debate along different currents of thought which have long characterized Italian defense thinking. At the risk of oversimplifying, three currents of thought can be identified. At one end of the spectrum there are the nationalists, who want Italy to assume an independent role above and beyond its Alliance commitments In the middle is a group, the "mediators", who want Italy to remain closely aligned with its Western partners, while simultaneously assuming a high diplomatic profile world-wide. At the other end one finds the "integrationists", who stake everything on European and Atlantic cohesion The work of Santoro and Caligaris falls somewhere between the first two groups.

While presented as a cooperative effort, the book is divided into three quide distinct and separately authored parts. The first part, written by Santoro, addresses the broad issue of the geopolitical context of Italy. What transpires here is the desire for both a greater national assertiveness at the regional lever - mainly in the Mediterranean - and a more active involvement in Alliance security and foreign policies at the global level. Santoro sees the world as fundamentally bipolar (p.14), but the implications he draws from that bipolarity are not wholly clear. On the one hand, he believes that should a medium power choose "not to belong to one of the two blocs ... instead of gaining in terms of independence it would see its task become more difficult", because its operating area would remain under the control of one or the other of superpower. He cites India and Yugoslavia as two such medium powers (p.15).

On the other hand, he recognizes that for a medium power the coordination of national interests and alliance obligations can often be problematic, and cites the crises of Suez in 1956, Cyprus in 1974 and Libya in 1986 as examples (p.29).

The implications for Italy are ambiguous: should it attach itself more tightly to NATO, in order to safeguard its freedom within world bipolarism, or should it disregard NATO whenever its national interests conflict with American ones? It does not seem possible to do both, as Santoro seems to wish. Also, it would have been helpful if he had explained why Indian or Yugoslavian foreign polity might have been more "independent" had those countries belonged to one of the two blocs; or how the medium powers involved in the afore-mentioned crises might have been at an advantage had they disregarded their respective blocs.

Santoro points to a possible answer when he writes that Italy should pursue national interests at the regional level in the Mediterranean area while framing its global interests within NATO (p.106). This however poses another set of unanswered questions. First, Italian national interests in a region may be global interests for one or both of the supposedly omnipresent superpowers, thus restricting its room for manoeuvre. Santoro does write that Italy needs a "more manoeuvrable and flexible tactical room for manoeuvre" (p.32) but the meaning of that phrase remains rather enigmatic to this reviewer.

Second, he states the need for Italy to develop a "package of national strategic objectives" which should "stress its natural role as a thermoregulator of the Mediterranean" (p.48). Again, it would have been interesting to read what he has in mind when he speaks of such objectives, and how Italy could impose them upon the Alliance and US, even if only at the regional level.

Finally, some elaboration would have been welcome as to why, in order to perform its thermoregulating function, Italy could "no longer maintain a low-profile political and military position" (p.42).

The difficulty of defining, before pursuing, national security interests is clearly recognized by Gen. Caligaris in the second part of the book, devoted to an analysis of the problems facing the italian political leadership. But, he points out, this is only one of the challenges facing the Italian leadership. Others include improving a highly deficient defense legislation (it is unclear, for instance, who would hold the High Command in case of war (p.202); creating an environment - for example, in the universities - where a security culture might flourish (p.205); refurbishing the now rather inadequately structured decision-making apparatus, both for day-to-day and for crisis-management purposes; restoring the position of Chief of Defense Staff above the service chiefs (p.287).

Unless these problems are satisfactorily solved, so the main thrust of Caligaris' argument implies, Italy will remain confined to its parochial dimension, wherein it is constantly seeking not to be excluded from international bodies and meetings - especially those restricted to the major industrialized countries - quite irrespective of what it can "say, deny or offer" as its own contributions (p.190).

The last part of the book, also by Caligaris, addresses specifically the issue of the military instrument, seen as an "extremely critical aspect of a national security policy" (p.243). Throughout this part he points to the dual function of force for both the "successful resolution of otherwise unresolvable crises" (war fighting) and the "catalization of effectively mediated solutions" (deterrence) (p.243).

Caligaris, however, betrays an overall uneasiness with the fact that, because of deterrence, military strategy has acquired an "unusual dimension" to the point of having both "lost its identity" (p.249), and weakened the military's commitment to force preparation. Moreover, nuclear deterrence in NATO has brought along a "deresponsibilization" and a "denationalization" of defense, as many countries, including Italy, found it easier to passively accept American protection (p.250).

With Caligaris' concluding chapter the book comes full circle. The main theme that emerges throughout is the perception on the part of the authors that Italy is not playing a role in the management of international security - particularly at the regional level - that is commensurate with its rising international profile, and that this role should increase. On this score, most Italians concerned will agree.

However, he means through which to achieve this end are more varied than the book would lead one to believe. Gen Caligaris does highlight several areas where Italy's defense posture is wanting, and his work is a useful contribution in the rather desolate panorama of Italian security literature. However, the book fails to provide clear prescriptions in terms of security policy objectives. It also does not convince that a higher military - and particularly nuclear (p.160) - profile is needed for Italy to be able to provide a better contribution to international security.



01 August 1980

Windsurfing in Sardegna

Marco a Golfo Aranci, in Sardegna, agosto 1980

24 June 1980

End of the semester abroad in Poland

We spend the morning in Venice, just showing Cathy the highlights. I have some rubles left and manage to change them, at a very unfavorable rate, at a money changer in Piazza San Marco.

After lunch we get back into Giallina one last time for the home stretch to Rome. Mum, dad and my brother Fabio are waiting at our apartment in Via dei Mille, and a genuine Italian home-made dinner prepared by our family chef Anna concludes our trip.

It is over.

But I know it is not really over. I know I will return to Poland in the future, for personal and professional reasons. Borzena is scheduled to come and visit this Summer. Marian and Ewa surely will be in touch and we'll try to make some money together trading goods between Italy and Poland.

It's been the most instructive period of my life. I went to Poland because I was interested in the "real" socialism. Never a socialist myself, as a political scientist in the making I wanted to understand the thinking beyond the wall. I thought better knowledge could foster mutual understanding, and peace.

The problem is, no one in Poland seemed to care about socialism. Those who did speak about it hardly ever said anything positive. It was different in the USSR, where some of those we met did seem to believe in their official ideology.

We'll see, for now it's time to take in a good night sleep in my own bed!

23 June 1980

Driving back through Yugoslavia and on to Italy

Left Balaton lake at 10.00am. It would have been nice to spend more time here, after four intense months, and relax a bit, take in the cool atmosphere and sip Hungarian wine, by far the best that is coming from the brotherhood of socialist countries. (Georgians might disagree, and I must admit I don't know Georgian wine much.) Much better than the Crimean "champagne" we had in the USSR.

The road is just OK and we proceed slowly toward Yugoslavia. No problem with this border. Two socialist countries, in theory ideological siblings. In practice, Yugoslavia has long been pursuing its own version of socialism, quite open to the West and relatively more relaxed at home.

Surprisingly, the roads in Yugoslavia are worse than in Hungary or Poland. At least the ones we drive on today. Once we reach Nova Gorica, the Yugoslav half of Gorizia, I pull into a service station to fill up Giallina. Gasoline is much cheaper here that in Italy. The man at the pump speaks Italian and says he only agrees to sell us fuel because he sees Giallina has a Roman plate. He refuses to sell to Italians from Trieste and Gorizia, who just cross the border to take advantage of subsidized fuel. Border inhabitants of both Italy and Yugoslavia can go shopping in each other's country fairly easily, and while Yugoslavs go to Italy to buy what they can't find at home, Italians hop beyond the border to buy cheap subsidized staples, fuel first of all.

We reach Mestre at about 9:00pm and get a couple of rooms at the "Garibaldi" hotel. Then out for pizza. Nice to be back in Italy, I enjoy hearing Italian and soaking the warm air, though everything now seems soooo expensive! A pizza here is more expensive than a gourmet fine dining experience in Warsaw!

13 February 1980

From Venice to Salzburg under the Alps

Crossing the Alps
We leave Venice at 9:45am and take the Autostrada to Vittorio Veneto, then a regional road to Cortina and the Austrian border. The weather is great, sunny and chilly, ideal for driving.

After refueling and changing the windshield wipers we cross into Austria and the Grossgloeckner glacier presents itself to us in all its mighty beauty. Normally one would drive up the pass and enjoy the drive but there is too much snow and the road is closed. No choice but to return to Winklern, then Obervellach where we can put Giallina on a train car that takes us through a tunnel to the other side of the Alps, and finally we reach Badgastein. Andrew and I alternate at driving.

When we get there we can't miss a typical local Wurstel. Ann sprains an ankle. We get to Salzburg in the early evening and after looking around for an inexpensive accommodation we settle for a room in the "Wolf" B&B, near the Mozartplatz. Right, Mozart, the enduring champion of Salzburg.

Salzburg in Mozart's time
Of Salzburg, yes, but not of Austria. A German friend of mine pointed out to me how the Austrians pulled this incredible trick in persuading the world that Hitler was German and Mozart was Austrian. In fact, Hitler was of course an Austrian who then became a naturalized German. Mozart however was never Austrian. During his lifetime (1756-1791) Salzburg the capital of the eponymous Arcbishopric, part of the Holy Roman Empire, Germany's immediate predecessor state if you will, not of the Austrian one.

Salzburg only became part of Austria after the Congress of Vienna, over twenty years after Mozart's death. That Wolfgang Amadeus worked in Vienna for much of his life did not make him a citizen.

Quiet evening in town.

12 February 1980

Visiting Venice and Murano

Wake up at 9:00 and back to Venice by car and ferry. Usual tourist spots: Rialto, San Marco with its superb Pala d'oro, the Palazzo Ducale.

In the afternoon we visited Murano and its world famous glass blowers where I bought a new key-chain for Giallina, a small multifaceted crystal sphere for our trusted bright yellow VW beetle that will lead us through this trip.











Long day of walking, interrupted only by a couple of snacks and a good gelato. In the evening we eat some bread and cheese in the hotel room, and end the day with a game of scopa and a bottle of pinot noir. Hit the sack by 11:30, tomorrow it's going to be a driving day to Austria.

11 February 1980

Departure from Rome to Poland for an academic semester abroad




By way of background

I was a student at Georgetown University's School of Foreign Service from 1978 to 1981. In the Spring semester of 1980 I wanted to enroll in G.U.'s "semester abroad" program. Among various options, G.U. offered an exchange with Poland. Well, it was a one-way "exchange", in that no Polish students were allowed to the U.S.

It was not a happy time, the USSR had just invaded Afghanistan and NATO was about to deploy its euromissiles in Europe. One day I was having lunch in our cafeteria with my friend Andrew, and talked to him about this opportunity. "Would you go? I am not sure I am into spending a semester in a Communist country on my own" I said. He replied "Well I am not sure I would either, but if you go, I'll go".

Author and Andrew in Rome with Giallina
Three months later Andrew came down to visit me in Rome, Italy and then the two of us and Ann, another fellow SFS student, were on our way to Poland in an old, bright yellow VW beetle nicknamed "Giallina" (the little yellow one). But to get to Poland we had to cross Austria - easy, piece of (Sachertorte) cake - and Czechoslovakia with a 24-hour transit visa, very poor maps and, of course, neither GPS nor GSM...

***********

So the moment of truth has arrived, after months of preparation we are off to start our semester abroad.

Andrew, Ann and I depart from Rome at about 9:30am. We reach Florence at about 2:00pm where we stop for a short walk in the old city. Start again and after having the car's tires checked we drive on until Mestre, just outside Venice. I was looking for an Agip motel but it's no longere there. We book a room at the "Vivit" and then we go to Venice to explore.
In Florence

Walking around this magic city is always an experience to remember for life. One most memorable moment is when we approach Piazza San Marco late in the evening, at about 1:00am. It is totally empy! An eerie sensation. The ground is shiny from the rain of the day and the lamp posts emanate a tenuous light. We stand in silence for a long moment before heading back to the ferry that will take us back to Mestre for the night.

16 April 1977

Scambi interscolastici Italia-Finlandia

Articolo da me scritto e pubblicato su "Piazza di Spagna", rivista quadrimestrale del Collegio S. Giuseppe - istituto De Merode. Anno XXVI, N. 2-3, giugno-ottobre 1977. L'articolo è solo indirettamente collegato ad un viaggio. Infatti esso nasce dalla visita di una mia amica finlandese in Italia, dopo che io avevo visitato la sua famiglia, e la sua scuola, qualche mese prima.