07 August 1999

8. - 7 AUG: Big Cave Camp game drives

Big Cave Camp game drives


The Big Cave Camp wilderness area was purchased by Cyril Waddy in 1947 and has been in the family ever since. The Waddys are from pioneering stock and have lived in the country for four generations. Avid bush lovers, the entire family spend a large part of their time exploring, hiking and learning about the many species of trees, flora and fauna that abound in the Matobo Hills.

Big Cave Camp was started by Mike and Yvonne Waddy as a recreational facility for the family in 1980 and was subsequently developed as a tourist facility by David Waddy. Dave can recall how they first lived in a two man tent, with no electricity or generator. Everything was either paraffin or gas operated. Today they are still very much involved in promoting tourism to Zimbabwe, after what has been a tough few years.

The lodge was expanded to accommodate 16 guests, the property restored to pristine condition and a wildlife sanctuary was created for the natural species of game that occur in the Matobo Hills.

The Waddy family continues to live and prosper in this beautiful area. We

06 August 1999

7. - 6 AUG: Masvingo to Bulawayo

Depart for Bulawayo and the Matopos - approximately 3.5 hours drive.
Big Cave Camp -

04 August 1999

5. - 4 AUG: Harare to Masvingo (Great Zimbabwe)

Hertz Rent-a-car delivers our car at Imba Matombo at 08h30. We load all our stuff, get easy directions from the driver and head South for an easy drive to Masvingo. This is a 3 hour drive on an almost entirely straight road.

The condition of the tarmac is good, and after a short while I get used to driving on the left-hand side of the road.


We check in at the Lodge of The Ancient City again on a Half Board basis. Again a luxury hotel with thatched roofs that blends in perfectly with the local environment.

Rest of the day at leisure, we take a short walk and spend a pleasant evening at the lodge, comforted by a great meal of game and South African wines.

03 August 1999

4. - 3 AUG: Harare shopping

Zimbabwe is dismantling the one hundred years old railway track solid teak
sleepers and replacing them with concrete. The sleepers are cut up and
made into furniture; you can find it at several shops in Harare (we found
the ones at Sam Levy's village and at Ballantyne Park the best, they will
also make items to order) but avoid Savanna Woods in Vic Falls as it is
considerably more expensive.

02 August 1999

3. - 2 AUG: Harare

Full day in Harare, dedicated mostly to exploring the work of Shona sculpture artists.

We went to Zim especially for Shona sculptures and thoroughly searched the place. Matombo Gallery on L.Takawira Avenue is the best place for quality sculptures, but expensive, and manager Roy Cook, who will gladly devote you his time to explain about Shona sculptures, does not like bargaining, so be prepared to pay for what you get... and more! Be sure to visit also their sculpture garden on the airport road, it holds some masterpieces by "first generation" artists which are not found elsewhere.

The National Gallery is the only other serious alternative, but the selection is poorer. Matombo (which means ROCK in shona) also has a good shop in Vic Falls. They will also arrange shipping at a reasonable rate. Tengenenge sculpture village has gone down in quality and is just a messy mountain of second quality stuff, though occasionally good artists emerge from the lot. Average pieces can be found at many other shops, so if you are not fussy about a specific artist or school do look around. Street markets are mostly for cheap souvenirs, not art.

01 August 1999

2. - 1 AUG: Harare

The huge 747 lands and park in the small Harare airport. No buses and no jet bridge "finger", we just descend the staircase and walk to the terminal A deep blue sky and a cool breeze welcome us to Africa.

After an uneventful passport control we get our bags and are met by the rep of Run Wild, the local tour operator we are using for this trip. He proceeds to transfer us Imba Matombo, a great little hotel in the Relais and Chateaux chain. It is a luxurious yet cozy property, white washed houses with thatched roofs. I booked a standard room on a half board basis.

Rest of the day by the pool, recuperating and reading up to prepare for our tour of Zimbabwe.

Imba Matombo remains the non plus ultra in terms of accommodation; they asked us USD140 pppd on a dbb basis, but we got it down to 120 through Runwild; it is worth it! During our stay, an Australian visiting chef delighted us with world class cuisine which took into account local foods and ingredients. You can also just go for dinner. Their "afternoon tea", with cake and cookies served by the poolside or in your room/verandah, and included in the daily price, is irresistible. Only catch: do not use their shuttle bus to town: at USD10 pp/per hour (min 3 hours) it is a veritable rip off.


Imba Matombo

31 July 1999

1. - 31 JUL 1999: Depart Brussels and arrive Harare

Easy flight with KLM via Amsterdam. Free business class tickets, thanks to lots of frequent flyer miles accumulated over time. KLM is pretty good, and my collection of blue KLM Delft houses gets one more piece!