8. - 5 JAN: Adigrat to Adua and Axum

Communicating in Adigrat

As I pack in my room on the fourth floor of the hotel, I can look out the window to the main street of Adigrat as the town wakes up. Lots of traffic revving up and stores opening their doors. In the distance, a tall GSM antenna testifies to the modernization of Ethiopia. Unlike some of my travel mates, who regret these technological advances as they "spoil" the country, I see this as a sign of progress, improvement and freedom.

As we are leaving town to get on our way to Axum, Paola asks whether we could make a short detour an visit the Italian cemetery of Adigrat, where many of our compatriots who died here during and especially after the war of 1936-1936 are buried. It is not well marked and it takes some asking around to locate it. A small, simple graveyard with a simple marble plate "Cimitero Militare Italiano" by the wrought iron gate. No one is around to open for us but after some time we manage to find the keeper. Inside, a rather desolate scene of neglect. The grass is dead, the few trees look very sad and the walk ways rather unkempt.

Around 11 o'clock in the morning we reach Debre Damos, a very peculiar church on top of a small amba, reacheable only by... rope! Two ropes actually, one tied around our waist and the other in our hands, to pull each of our bodies up in turn with the help of a monk on top. The church is rather simple, only a few monks around and some kids preparing mud bricks.

As we continue driving we pass some villagers walking briskly on theshining new road. We stop at a road side cafe for a good Ethiopian coffee and a meal of ingera. By now it looks, and tastes, rather normal and routine.

When we reach Adua we run into a dilapidated stele erected in memory of the Italian soldiers fallen at the battle of Adua in 1986. Small and forgotten, a sad reminder of that futile battle over a century ago.

7. - 4 JAN: Mek'ele to Adigrat

Another early start from the hotel, with a new structure being built just at its side. Cane scaffolding hides what is probably a new annex, this bustling city, the largest in Northern Ethiopia, is obviously growing fast and attracting international business.

As we head out of town the sun rises over the brand new road that winds up the ambas. La strada degli italiani has already been re-done here, by the Chinese! We stop at a lively roadside market. Plenty of vegetables and live animals are on sale as well as lots of salt. I get the impression of a thriving economic life. I am invited by some young kids to play pool in a brick building. They are playing the 5-pin "Italian" game and have a jolly good time! As I leave before I have time to finish a game, I buy some tasty roasted peanuts from a kid by the road.

After a while we stop at Abraha Atsbeha church, with its magnificent frescoes. A very serene place. A young priest is rather cooperative and poses for me in different locations, holding various items of religious paraphernalia in his hands. Impressive paintings have been restored, sometimes a bit haphazardly.

As we leave we pass by one of many farms along the road, with two sets of four cows threshing barley in a circle. It's a sunny, dry and pleasant afternoon.

A few kilometers down the road to Adigrat we stop at a roadside elementary school by the town of Wukro. Like much of what We have encountered in this trip, the school is fairly poor but organized in its own way and rather clean. It actually looks smart.  On the outside walls some graffiti explain the human body. Another, rather funny one, shows the various phases of a worm's metamorphosis into a butterfly. Inside, pupils, much like pupils everywhere, take turns at the blackboard as the teacher asks her questions. Copybooks are full of notes and drawings. Some classes are singing and one actually greets me in English, with all students chanting "hello how are you?" in unison.

In the evening, just before sunset, we stop at a roadside cafe for a drink. The low sun disk projects on the sleek road tarmac the long warm long shadows of adolescent students walking home after school. Inside, no Ethiopian coffee ceremony today, but an Italian espresso machine.

6. - 3 JAN: Lalibela to Mek'ele

Yet again up before dawn, this has become a habit in this trip. For one, early morning is the best light for photography and is this group we are all photographers. Also, distances are quite long every day, and this being Africa it is always wise to allow plenty of spare time.

5. - 2 JAN: Lalibela

Get up very early to try and get to the monolithic Lalibela churches and find room to witness the orthodox Christian ceremonies. Our hotel is a bit far from the center, so we had agreed with the guide to tell the driver to be ready at 5. Mistake: should have told the driver directly. As it was, there was miscommunication between the two and by 5:30am we start walking. It takes about half an hour to get to the main churches. The cool morning air makes walking rather pleasant and we join thousands of pilgrims who are also on their way. It is still pitch dark.

By the time we get there the small spaces inside the Churches are already overflowing with the faithful praying and singing. Most of THEM can't make it inside, so I guess it is only fair that we, visitors, should stay out. No sweat, this is not really a problem, for two reasons. Anyway, many of the functions actually take place outside, in the courtyards around the churches, so we are not missing all the action. In fact come noon most of the action is outside, with musicians and drummers attracting the pilgrims attention in the open spaces by the churches.

4. - 1 January 2010: Dessie to Lalibela

Early start up the mountain on our way to Beta Estifanos monastery. On the way we stop at a few stunning view points. Some wrecks of tanks from the recent civil wars litter the side of the road.Some ladies in colorful clothes climb up the slope going somewhere, could not be a starker contrast with the massive rusty hulk pointing its gun barrel to the sky.