08 January 2010

11. - 8 JAN: Gondar to Bahir Dar

Start of the day at the Fasil Gebbi, or Gondar enclusure. A large and majestic complex of palaces, a castle and once luscious gardens now in disrepair. A few birds hop around on top of the castle's merlons.The large empty halls of the castle are highly evocative of times past, especially the XVII century, when Emperor Fasilides projected his great powers from this site. We then go to the Debre Birhan Selassie Church, well known for its exquisite wall paintings.

A little stroll in town precedes a light lunch at a roadside cafe. The Italian 1930s architecture is still apparent downtow, for example in the post office building, among others. Lots of people walking around the busy main street, quite a few cars and swarms of motor rickshaws, "Ape" copied from the Piaggio models so successful throughout Asia.

At one point we walk by the local courthouse and notice some older men sitting outside in the shade with what look like poor people around them. Our guide explains that these are retired lawyers who provide free legal advice to poor people who could not otherwise afford it. Nice touch...

As we prepare to leave town we stop at the Fasilides baths, where the Ethiopians celebrate their Epyhany, or Timkat. There is no ceremony today, we are a few days too early, but quite a few people are busy at work preparing for next week.

We stop at a farm along the way, try to have a chat with the farmer and at one point the wife goes out of her way to show us her jewels, golden bracelets and ear rings of which she is clearly very proud.

We reach Bahir Dar just after a spectacularly red hot sunset has gifted us the last photo ops of a very colorful day.

07 January 2010

10. - 7 JAN: Axum to Gondar

Long transfer on the "Strada degli Italiani" toward Gondar. Early breakfast by the roadside, where a stunningly beautiful lady serves us eggs and fresh orange juice.

The road is not paved well here, and every truck raises huge clouds of dust that linger in mid air for longs minutes.

The landscape is king today, as the majestic ambas offer different shades of blues and greens and browns to my telephoto lens.

Many memories of past wars on the way, from an Italian fort on a hilltop to rusting tanks from the more recent wars with Eritrea. It's now a playground for some kids from a bearby farm.

In one village, an abandoned Agip gas station testifies to the long standing Italian presence in the country.

We reach Gondar in the evening, and hit the sack early, this has been a long day on the road and tomorrow will be busy for us and our cameras.

06 January 2010

9. - 6 JAN: Axum

Whole day in this town, a symbol of Ethiopia and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the terrace of our hotel we can enjoy a great view over the main field of steles. Among them, the famous Rome obelisk, returned in 2008 after seventy years spent in the eternal city. It is a magic site, very few people around, and this allows us to fully enjoy our visit. Unfortunately the sun is already too high to take good photos, so I'll have to come back at sunset. A small museum completes the educational aspect of the site. I especially appreciate a sign by the ticket office: "The fool wanders, a wise man travels".

I am struck by a Swedish couple walking around with their two kids, a boy and a girl aged perhaps 4 and 6, each with their little backpack, following diligently in their parents' footsteps. The answer to my many friends who have children of similar age and don't travel to Africa because it is "dangerous" for them.

From here we walk across the street to the Church of Our Lady of Zion, which is actually two Churches, one new and one very old, where legend has it that the ark of the Covenant if guarded by a single monk appointed to this only function for life. Well... Lots of people sitting around here, some musicians playing away with their trumpets and deums in the courtyard and a few faithful inside. One monk takes out a few old bibles for us to look and photograph.

Our next stop is the ruins of the palace allegedly built by the Queen of Sheba, supposedly an ancestor of the Ethiopian imperial family, just out of town. Not so interesting for the uninitiated to the arcana of archeology I must say. By 4 o'clock in the afternoon I decide to go back to the stelae for optimal sunset light photography. Indeed, the effort pays out: a warm amber light soon begins to envelop the monuments, and there is no one around at all.

In the evening I decide to attend the orthodox Christmas ceremonies at the small Church of Enda Iyesus by the stelae field. It is a highly suggestive setting. The warm evocative candle light mixed with cold cheap neon creates a surreal atmosphere. Many priests are celebrating mass, and quite a few faithful are attending, many stranded outside.

A few youngsters are visibly happy about our presence that perhaps for them is a welcome distraction from the boredom of the liturgy. The main priests at first refuses us entry, but then relents after we tend a monetary offer. I try not to disturb the proceedings and take quite a few pictures from the sidelines.


05 January 2010

8. - 5 JAN: Adigrat to Adua and Axum

Communicating in Adigrat
As I pack in my room on the fourth floor of the hotel, I can look out the window to the main street of Adigrat as the town wakes up. Lots of traffic revving up and stores opening their doors. In the distance, a tall GSM antenna testifies to the modernization of Ethiopia. Unlike some of my travel mates, who regret these technological advances as they "spoil" the country, I see this as a sign of progress, improvement and freedom.

As we are leaving town to get on our way to Axum, Paola asks whether we could make a short detour an visit the Italian cemetery of Adigrat, where many of our compatriots who died here during and especially after the war of 1936-1936 are buried. It is not well marked and it takes some asking around to locate it. A small, simple graveyard with a simple marble plate "Cimitero Militare Italiano" by the wrought iron gate. No one is around to open for us but after some time we manage to find the keeper. Inside, a rather desolate scene of neglect. The grass is dead, the few trees look very sad and the walk ways rather unkempt.

Around 11 o'clock in the morning we reach Debre Damos, a very peculiar church on top of a small amba, reacheable only by... rope! Two ropes actually, one tied around our waist and the other in our hands, to pull each of our bodies up in turn with the help of a monk on top. The church is rather simple, only a few monks around and some kids preparing mud bricks.

As we continue driving we pass some villagers walking briskly on theshining new road. We stop at a road side cafe for a good Ethiopian coffee and a meal of ingera. By now it looks, and tastes, rather normal and routine.

When we reach Adua we run into a dilapidated stele erected in memory of the Italian soldiers fallen at the battle of Adua in 1986. Small and forgotten, a sad reminder of that futile battle over a century ago.